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Renoise midi clock to control voltage?

midi to cv analogue syncing Linux

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#1 TheBellows

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Posted 27 August 2017 - 17:09

I'm working on synth project using a Raspberry pi to run Linux and i'd like to use a midi clock from Raspberry to sync with different analogue modules. 

I can't find a cheap and simple solution for this, though i guess the Doepfer MCV4 will do the job, but how do i make Raspberry pi feed  the midi clock signal to the MCV4 with? Do i need specialized scripts/software? Would it be sufficient to hook it up with a USB to midi converter? Are there easier/better ways to get around this?

Is it possible to connect a sound card to raspberry pi and then use software to convert the midi clock to a CV signal through the audio jack? I only need the cv for triggering/syncing purposes, not for pitch controlling.

Any other ideas?


Edited by TheBellows, 28 August 2017 - 16:09.


#2 Renoised

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Posted 27 August 2017 - 18:04

Only thing I can suggest is to look into the Raspberry Pi's pin configuration (the pins used to connect to shields etc).  If you were to look into doing PWM on the Pi for example, you could convert PWM into a voltage using a simple DAC as far as I'm aware.  So maybe look into which pins output PWM, and find out how to make it do it.  Once you have PWM under your control, maybe feed that PWM through a DAC, and take it from there.

 

Never tired it though, so don't quote me on any of that, I could be completely wrong.


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#3 TheBellows

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Posted 28 August 2017 - 16:47

Note shure if i follow, but i guess there should be a way to connect a simple cv gate signal through some of those pins, though i would assume i need to know a little coding if i want to make this work. I really hoped i could avoid the coding bit as i don't have any real experience with it and i'm not very motivated to start learning it.

 

I found a linux app called "jm2cv : Jack Midi to Control Voltage" which i assume could do the trick and i assume i could use jm2cv to feed a CV signal through a sound card? Does this seem right or have i misunderstood how this work? Could i tap this cv signal from a midi out from the sound card or what kind of connector could i send an analogue signal like this? If it only goes through the jack out/headphones then would i need two sound cards and would i be able to use two sound cards at once in Linux at all? 

 

I guess using MCV4 with a raspberry pi soundcard with midi output is the simplest solution, but i'll try the alternative first to see if i can make it a lot cheaper for myself. It would be a bit ironic if the midi to cv circuit would be the most expensive part in the whole machine. It costs even more than the 7" touch screen and raspberry pi 3 with ssd module combined and still MCV4 is considered cheap. Total ripoff imo, though i guess these don't sell in enourmous quantities and are built for professional use, so i guess that's why they cost as much compared to what you get. 

 

Another question: would a raspberry pi 3 be capable of running the latest ubuntu distros or even Renoise at all? I would guess that is to stretch it's capabilities with its 1GB RAM, but it seems it has a pretty powerful CPU.

It's not crucial that it can run Renoise though, but it would be cool. I was hoping i could at least run milkytracker or some other less cpu and memory hungry apps to generate some input to the crazy machine i'm building.

Plan is to use raspberry pi as a sound source and clock for two 8 step sequencers and several ISD (audio recorder chip) modules and make them act like a sampler, maybe even some echo/short delay modules and 'voice changer' module based on a HT8950, the same one used in 'Synthrotek Roboto' synth module. All analogue except from the raspberry and with fancy lighting switches. :P

 

Edit: Ah, now i see there is a ubuntu distro called Ubuntu MATE, especially made for Raspberry pi. I can already smell the headache it's going to be setting this up... :/


Edited by TheBellows, 28 August 2017 - 18:03.


#4 Renoised

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Posted 28 August 2017 - 17:53

Sorry Bellows, I understand better what you're getting at now, but realistically, if you want to be able to control stuff using hand-built gear, it's likely that coding will come into it at some point.  That said, I wasn't aware of that software you just mentioned, and that sounds like it might do the job, but I'm not so sure you would feed a voltage through a soundcard for this stuff.  I think it probably uses the expansion pins to send a voltage cause that's kinda the point of a Pi, it being an experimenters board/computer they give you the expansion pins to play around with.

 

It's an interesting idea, using the soundcard to transfer a voltage to another, but I've never heared of CV being done that way before.  CV might use the same jacks, but what's behind those jacks is different to a soundcard, and I can imagine the levels would be drastically different as well.  I suppose there's nothing to stop you sending a 'tone' from a soundcard and creating a little circuit to receive it and convert it into a clock voltage though.



#5 TheBellows

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Posted 28 August 2017 - 18:35

Sorry Bellows, I understand better what you're getting at now, but realistically, if you want to be able to control stuff using hand-built gear, it's likely that coding will come into it at some point.  That said, I wasn't aware of that software you just mentioned, and that sounds like it might do the job, but I'm not so sure you would feed a voltage through a soundcard for this stuff.  I think it probably uses the expansion pins to send a voltage cause that's kinda the point of a Pi, it being an experimenters board/computer they give you the expansion pins to play around with.

 

It's an interesting idea, using the soundcard to transfer a voltage to another, but I've never heared of CV being done that way before.  CV might use the same jacks, but what's behind those jacks is different to a soundcard, and I can imagine the levels would be drastically different as well.  I suppose there's nothing to stop you sending a 'tone' from a soundcard and creating a little circuit to receive it and convert it into a clock voltage though.

I'm using several analogue modules that uses chips with a clock pin, so i'm pretty convinced i'll be able to control their timing in some fashion using a CV gate signal. The audio jack should be very well capable of delivering a 5V gate signal. It doesn't even have to be 5V as it reacts to voltages even below 2V. Actually if i was able to route a specific track directly in mono through a sound card line out(or rather headphones out or else i might have to amplify the gate signal to make it usable), i think i could generate the signal using a square wave LFO hooked up with a DC Offset device sent through the headphones jack (have i misunderstood how this works perhaps? Is there a DC filter except for the tick box in the master post mixer?). It shouldn't be too hard at all if the softwares allowed me to do this. By connecting the gate signal to a decade counter (4017) i could easily get 8 new gate signals that turns on in sequence in timing with the original gate signal. I could perhaps send this gate signal using Renoise, but then i assume i can't route audio from renoise to the machine at the same time unless i go mono, by using one channel for the gate signal and the other for audio. I can also use the gate to trigger on the negative phase, then i could hook it up with another 4017 and get 16 steps, but for this project 8 steps will have to do. It's not supposed to act like a normal seuencer anyway, why would i need that when i have Renoise? No this thing is for making weird sounds and rythms, hopefully a bit more than just the average noise box, but more or less that is its purpose. The project is a bit based on the concept of 'less thinking, more building'.   :D

If syncing computer with the analogue is too much of a hazzle i'll just make a simple clock with a 555 timer, they're always fun. :P

 

If you want to use a MIDI clock for controlling various analogue equipment, then you have to convert the MIDI to CV, so i don't see what's different in this case? The normal route from a computer would be from a MIDI output of the computer sound card, wouldn't it? I know doing it through the jack is maybe not the usual route, but i basically just wanted to know how jm2cv works, does it send non MIDI signals through the MIDI connector or does it send it through one of the jack outputs? I can't see there are any other options and to me it sounds like sending it through the MIDI connector would be a bit strange because where do you find a MIDI connector cable to a single jack? I can't recall seeng one of those around lately.


Edited by TheBellows, 28 August 2017 - 19:27.


#6 Renoised

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Posted 28 August 2017 - 19:33

Reading that lot, you sound like you're way ahead of me in understanding this stuff.

 

The only thing that makes me cringe is you keep talking about 5V and soundcards, and the reason it makes me cringe is because I thought soundcard voltage input/output is measured in mV, not V.  Therefore, when you talk about sticking 5V into a soundcards input, wouldn't that be like sticking a million times the expected voltage through it if it's onlly expecting something like 5mV?

 

Ping ... *SNIFF SNIFF* ... what's that funny smell?

Oh look ... I just fried my Pi :D

 

Back to being serious ... the only other thing I can suggest is that you download the schematics for the Open Hardware modules released by LittleBits.  Among them are modules for CV and MIDI.  If you visit the LittleBits site you'll find a link somewhere to the schematics of every module they make.  They used to be on the page of each module but I can't find them now, but here's the product pages that might interest you:

 

https://shop.littleb...control-voltage

https://shop.littleb...c/products/midi

 

If you were to find the schematics for those two (I haven't a clue where they've move them), you might be able to gather what you need from them.



#7 TheBellows

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Posted 29 August 2017 - 17:23

I'm not sticking the 5V into the input of the soundcard, this is what goes out from the soundcard and a regular headphone output indeed delivers about 5 volts or else it wouldn't be able to drive the passive hedphones. There is quite a bit difference between the unamplified signal that goes into the preamp than the signal that comes out from the power amp, which a headphones output is.  ;)

The line out however, is a weaker signal that has just gone through a preamp circuit so it becomes a solid enough signal so that it can travel through longer cables and still deliver a decent output to whatever line in you put it into. 

I basically just want to send a 2-5V low frequency squarewave  signal through the headphones jack, thats it. However i'm not shure this works, because i have a hunch that soundcard might have a DC filter, because audio equipment aren't particularly happy with those. Doesn't it always say 20Hz-20kHz on the outputs, i can't recall seeing a 0Hz-20kHz or whatever?

 

Also, milli stands for a thousand to one, not a million. I believe most line ins could handle an audio signal that peaks around 5V for a short time, you would most likely turn the volume knob down to a much lower level pretty soon when you hear how it sounds like anyway, but feeding it a 5V DC signal is most likely not a good idea.  

 

The thing is i know a bit of analogue electronics and i have a fair understanding of how each component works and can read schematics well enough to solder together basic stuff, but digital electronics however is a completely different world that i have next to no experience with.

 

 

Edit: that MIDI bit thingy looks like the exact thing i need and at a more decent price tag, but it strikes me as a bit weird that it gets all the MIDI signals through a 3 lead stereo jack. I thought MIDI used more than 3 leads, what's the point with the weird din plug connector then? Or perhaps the 3 leads covers the most useful signals?


Edited by TheBellows, 29 August 2017 - 18:32.


#8 Renoised

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Posted 29 August 2017 - 20:02

Well, like I said, you're way ahead of me with this, I must have been getting confused with watts :unsure:

 

It's a shame you're not documenting the creation of this synth you're making, or maybe you are?

Do you have a blog or something like that, something you update as you build it?

 

Hands-on sampling is surely pretty high on just about every electronic musicians list, or at least it definitely is on mine, you only have to look at the popularity of the Volca Sample (and that thing can't even sample).

Would love to see this thing progress, or if you can't be bothered with that, maybe do a tutorial when you finish it :)


Edited by Renoised, 29 August 2017 - 20:03.

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#9 Renoised

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Posted 29 August 2017 - 20:21

Edit: that MIDI bit thingy looks like the exact thing i need and at a more decent price tag, but it strikes me as a bit weird that it gets all the MIDI signals through a 3 lead stereo jack. I thought MIDI used more than 3 leads, what's the point with the weird din plug connector then? Or perhaps the 3 leads covers the most useful signals?

 

... sorry, forgot to answer that.

 

It's because LittleBits is a system for connecting pre-built electronics modules together.  The modules are held together magnetically and connect to each other using their proprietory connector which uses three tiny sprung connections.  It's a neat invention, pretty damn cool actually, but personally I see it more as a rich kids toy.  It's supposed to be educational, and it is if you happen to be rich enough to pay out £10-£15 for even basic components.  There are modules that are nothing more than a switch, or wire, and the prices even for those modules are completely outrageous for what they are.

 

Like I said, it's a good idea though, and even Korg contributed and released a bunch of synthesizer modules and a kit, they even released one of their filter designs as Open Hardware to do it.  What we need, since it's open hardware, is for someone to look at the schematics and convert all modules into "Fritzing" schematics that everyone can understand and use without the expense.  That would remove the need to pay their outragous prices, and would make it truly accessible by removing thier proprietory connector.  It would allow you to build a synth from scratch, and automatically know that it would work.


Edited by Renoised, 29 August 2017 - 20:39.

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#10 TheBellows

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Posted 29 August 2017 - 22:38

Well, like I said, you're way ahead of me with this, I must have been getting confused with watts :unsure:

 

It's a shame you're not documenting the creation of this synth you're making, or maybe you are?

Do you have a blog or something like that, something you update as you build it?

 

Hands-on sampling is surely pretty high on just about every electronic musicians list, or at least it definitely is on mine, you only have to look at the popularity of the Volca Sample (and that thing can't even sample).

Would love to see this thing progress, or if you can't be bothered with that, maybe do a tutorial when you finish it :)

Voltage multiplied by current = watt,

most electronic circuits are driven by direct current, DC, while audio is always an alternate current, AC, because that's what makes it audible. As long as the current is alternating in any frequency between 20Hz to 20kHz it shold be audible at least in theory. 1 Hertz is exactly 1 cycle per second, 2Hz is 2 cycles and so on. The voltage tells us how 'loud' this signal is, but is impossible to measure with a voltmeter because it's constantly alternating between negative volts and positive volts more than 20 times per second while the voltmeter tries to read it as DC voltage. 

In circuits there is always a common ground, which is supposed to be 0V at any time, you can look at it as a huge water tank, though in circuits we usuallly read it from positive to ground, or negative to ground in other circuits (both in opamp circuits used in many amplifiers), but in fact it actually is the other way around because electrons are negatively charged and therefore is drawn towards the positive leads. A negative voltage however is basically just to swap the wires from the power source. 

 

 

At this moment i'm in the experimentation phase and i'm basically just waiting for all the parts i need to start this. I'm building most of it out of small ready made modules this time, instead of building them from small components, so this simplifies things a lot compared to soldering everything by hand like i have done for the most. I've ordered most from Aliexpress and they're mostly pretty cheap compared to what they're capable of. The most expensive parts was of course the Raspberry pi + extras, but apart from that i have ordered things like a tube preamp for about $10 and i'm most certainly shure it would cost me a lot more to build myself. Surround sound modules (i think i can easily turn it into an echo/delay module too), tone board, preamps, voltage regulator modules with voltage output display, recording modules, ring modulator kit, robot voice kit, relay module, radio modules, radio transmitter modules, i've lost count of all i have ordered, but the price range is somewhere around $3-$5 per module. I've also ordered metal switches with built in light when it's on and lots of potentiometers, wire connectors and such. There will be lots of wiring, but i think the project will be pretty easy to explain how it all works, so i will try and document it as well as i can and post a thread about it once i've figured how and what i can get crammed into this thing.

 

My current plan/configuraton is something like this:

 

Raspeberry pi as an audio generator, hopefully Renoise feeding audio through a soundcard > signal goes to a preamp and mixer which splits the audio signal > each signal is fed through a recording module and dry signal to final mixer > 8 step sequencers triggers the recording modules to play > various effects like reverbs and more crazy stuff like pitch/robot /vibrato voice changer which is easy to circuit bend into sounding completely bonkers

 

Only a crude simplified explanation, but it gives you an idea of what i'm trying to make. All recorder modules can record what comes from the soundcard by holding a button and you can also change sample rate by turning a knob (or one for coarse tuning and one for fine tuning) after i've modified it a bit. The sequencer, i hope will work with an optocoupler connected to the play button which can be set to the mode where it plays the whole recording or just while it's switched on. It also has a loop mode so you could basically record a beat, and make it loop forever and also turn the knob where you can make the bpm match the rest if you wish. 

I doubt i will use the radio modules for this project, but anything can happen. My initial plan with the radio and radio transmitter modules was to make a theremin out of them, but i'm not shure it will work. 

The cream on top would of course be to have Renoise on the touch screen and at the same time have it synced to everything else. :D



#11 Renoised

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Posted 31 August 2017 - 22:15

Got a few questions actually, but my battery is about to die, will get back tomorrow after a long recharge :)



#12 Renoised

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Posted 01 September 2017 - 23:35

Good to hear you plan to start a thread, really looking forward to that, Bellows!

 

I look at a lot of these DIY projects and they're all pretty neat in their own ways, but you know what always seems to be the part people turn chicken about?  It's when it comes to incorporating analogue stuff.  Like for example, you'll see DIY samplers but they leave it at that, just digital playback of a file with a trigger attached.  They don't bother adding an analogue filter and envelope, so that the envelope gets triggered along with the sample playback of the sampler, and that's a real shame, cause lo-fi samplers sound amazing through analogue filters!

 

I don't know if there's any part of your plans that incorporate it, but if there's any part that uses digital control of analogue filter and envelope, that's the part I would personally be glued to with interest cause like with most people, that seems to be the barrier into getting a little more advanced.  Again, it's a real shame it's a barrier, cause the Roland synths of the 80s, for example the JX-8P, were digitally controlled analogues.  It's a powerful combination and even allows for presets on analogue due to being able to store the digital values that are controlling the filter and envelope etc.


Edited by Renoised, 01 September 2017 - 23:35.


#13 TheBellows

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Posted 02 September 2017 - 14:18

Good to hear you plan to start a thread, really looking forward to that, Bellows!

 

I look at a lot of these DIY projects and they're all pretty neat in their own ways, but you know what always seems to be the part people turn chicken about?  It's when it comes to incorporating analogue stuff.  Like for example, you'll see DIY samplers but they leave it at that, just digital playback of a file with a trigger attached.  They don't bother adding an analogue filter and envelope, so that the envelope gets triggered along with the sample playback of the sampler, and that's a real shame, cause lo-fi samplers sound amazing through analogue filters!

 

I don't know if there's any part of your plans that incorporate it, but if there's any part that uses digital control of analogue filter and envelope, that's the part I would personally be glued to with interest cause like with most people, that seems to be the barrier into getting a little more advanced.  Again, it's a real shame it's a barrier, cause the Roland synths of the 80s, for example the JX-8P, were digitally controlled analogues.  It's a powerful combination and even allows for presets on analogue due to being able to store the digital values that are controlling the filter and envelope etc.

I'm afraid i will not make digital control for the analogue parts in this project, but it would pobably not be too hard to make digital controls if you use Arduino, Raspberry pi or similar. I would assume that you could simply buy some digital potentiometer modules and use them in place of the mechanical (regular analogue) pot meters that i'll be using. I haven't worked with these yet, but i assume they work identical to regular pots, just that instead of turning a knob you instruct its value through the arduino/R pi. In software almost anything should be possible, but that's definately not my field of expertise, so i have really no idea how you can make it work with different softwares like Renoise or whatever.

If you're interested in digipots you should take a look at these articles for R pi and arduino:

http://www.takaitra.com/posts/503

https://www.arduino....alPotentiometer

 

My biggest worry with these is that i believe they could introduse noise if the input signal isn't 100% stabile/accurate, but i don't know if this is gonna be a problem using r pi or arduino.

If you are going to use analogue filters for digital audio you have to remember you also need a DAC(output of a soundcard) and then you're left with an analogue signal and if you want to turn it back to digital you need an ADC(input of a soundcard) after the filter. Both these steps shape the audio to a certain degree, depending on the DAC/ADC circuts/algorithms. You would end up with a digital filter with analogue filtering. 


Edited by TheBellows, 02 September 2017 - 14:47.


#14 Renoised

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Posted 03 September 2017 - 15:02

Thanks for the links, and actually, I have quite a few bits and bobs cause I've bought a few electronics starter kits in recent years.  For example there's a huge Arduino-based kit I bought with hundreds of components, it's pretty cool, and will be even cooler when I learn to use more of it :lol: :D


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#15 TheBellows

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Posted 04 September 2017 - 18:02

Yeah, you should definately start figuring out those things and maybe teach me some cool digital stuff. 

Here's my last attemt at a sequencer, it works well, but only outputs square wave output with no envelopes. It has some echo/reverb stuff too. Doesn't really sound very pleasant, but very fun to play and annoy neighbours with:

DJHB4CZ.jpg

It is an 8 step sequencer, but capapable of sequencing in several different step settings and i'm hoping i can make the one i'm building now to work similarly only with samples and hopefully some other weird stuff

 

I ordered some better recording modules today too and i can't complaint on the price, i paid $28 for 8 modules. These are easier to add pitch shifting to also, it has it's own pins for it, also better quality sound and larger memory. 

I'm receiveing so many packages these days that i bought for this project i lost count, picked up 8 today and everything is dirt cheap. I wasn't aware that many came as unsoldered kits, so i guess i have to get on with the soldering. At least now i don't have to find all the parts myself and use universal veroboards to solder them too, it's always a headache when you do a mistake. It's not that hard when you have the specially designed pcb for it, just pop parts in place and a swing with the soldering iron. 

 

wow, now i'm rambling...


Edited by TheBellows, 04 September 2017 - 18:20.


#16 Renoised

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Posted 05 September 2017 - 16:07

Ramble away, your rambling had me on eBay last night and I bought a couple of those ISD1820 Recording/Playback modules, I bought two!

 

That sequencer looks very industrial, built like a tank, but the burning question I have is does it transpose when you change key on an attached MIDI or CV keyboard?

BTW, what do you mean by "better recording modules", I'm assuming you used those ISD1820 types before and have found a better one now?



#17 TheBellows

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Posted 05 September 2017 - 16:32



Ramble away, your rambling had me on eBay last night and I bought a couple of those ISD1820 Recording/Playback modules, I bought two!

 

That sequencer looks very industrial, built like a tank, but the burning question I have is does it transpose when you change key on an attached MIDI or CV keyboard?

BTW, what do you mean by "better recording modules", I'm assuming you used those ISD1820 types before and have found a better one now?

I suggest you go buying your modules from Aliexpress instead, as they're cheaper over there and i have never yet received a faulty item after more than 150 purchases over the years. It can be a bit difficult to find the best deals and the exact product youre looking for, but if you want i can give you the link to some of the modules i bought.

 

The better modules: https://www.aliexpre...2311.0.0.6a9qhq Still cheaper than one of the 1820 on ebay.

It doesn't come with a speaker, but that is complete crap anyway, so i wouldn't even bother. This one is more suited for an Arduino project too, i think you can even transfer waves to it from a computer, though i haven't looked into that yet.

The ISD1820 module is a bit more easy to work with in an analogue circuit though, because they have different pinouts, analogue pins on the ISD1820 and digital pins on ISD1700.

Both chips should be capable of recording in 12kHz, but i think the default rate is lower on the 1820 module, though i'm not really shure. The 1700 has a longer recording time and is better suited for digital control, but can also be used for analogue circuits by using the pinouts from the microswitches. 

 

Edit: when looking closer at the 1700 module i can't find the resistor pins for changing the sample rate and i realized this module is a bit different from ones i bought earlier.

 

If you got this version of the 1820 module then pitch shifting is very easy, just replace the jumper above the playl button with a potentiometer:

0e9EAaU.jpg

If you don't have this version you will most likely not have this pinout, but then you will see a resistor that goes from pin 10, in my case it's R4 on two different modules, so i guess that should be it. This resistor is connected between pin 10 and ground and it should be a 2,2Kohm resistor. You need to find a way to connect this 2,2K resistor to a potentiometer, 50K should work fine, to ground. 

Options would be to remove the existing R4 and solder a 2,2K and 50Kpot in it's place direclty from the 10th pin under the board and connect it to any ground lead. You could also scratch off the copper that makes a short to ground on the one end of R4, solder a 50Kpot from this lead to any ground lead/pin.


Edited by TheBellows, 05 September 2017 - 17:42.


#18 Renoised

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Posted 05 September 2017 - 18:55

Damn ... I was going to go for that one due to it having the switches where the other board (the one I purchased), uses jumpers instead.  I went for the one with jumpers thinking it would be better to connect to other things (directly to the jumper pins), and it also came with, granted, a crappy speaker but also a battery holder.  Didn't really need either of those but went for it due to convenience really, and I wanted to battery-power them while experimenting with them anyway.  The one I went for also mentioned something about being able to increase the sample rate by using a different resistor.  Actually though, I'm assuming the one you show does exactly the same cause it's the same chip after all.

 

Thanks for pointing that other one out, but reading the spec aren't you concerned about that indicator feature the board has?

Wouldn't that get in the way of doing looping and stuff by doing a beep on each repeat of the loop?


Edited by Renoised, 05 September 2017 - 18:56.


#19 Renoised

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Posted 06 September 2017 - 14:27

They arrived this morning, haven't tried them yet, just been looking at them.

 

Nicely made for such a cheap device, and at least they had the sense to put mounting holes on this version, which is absent from the switched version you showed.  He included an instruction sheet as well which was nice, although there's nothing about the resistor that controls the sampling rate so I'll have to look into that.  BTW, I noticed after reading your post again, that you're already aware of being able to adjust the sampling rate.  You'll have to excuse my stupidity there, I must have been half asleep!

 

Reading the sheet he included, I'm a bit weary of the way looping would need to be handled.  It looks as if there's no on-board way of setting it to loop mode, which is kinda dumb really.  According to the sheet, I'd have to reset a pin each time I want a loop.  That makes me think I'd get a click due to the reset on each loop.  Looking forward to playing with them though!



#20 TheBellows

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Posted 06 September 2017 - 15:02

Damn ... I was going to go for that one due to it having the switches where the other board (the one I purchased), uses jumpers instead.  I went for the one with jumpers thinking it would be better to connect to other things (directly to the jumper pins), and it also came with, granted, a crappy speaker but also a battery holder.  Didn't really need either of those but went for it due to convenience really, and I wanted to battery-power them while experimenting with them anyway.  The one I went for also mentioned something about being able to increase the sample rate by using a different resistor.  Actually though, I'm assuming the one you show does exactly the same cause it's the same chip after all.

 

Thanks for pointing that other one out, but reading the spec aren't you concerned about that indicator feature the board has?

Wouldn't that get in the way of doing looping and stuff by doing a beep on each repeat of the loop?

I thought i replied to this yesterday, but i must have forgotten to push 'send'. It sounds to me like you have gotten the perfect ISD1820 module for diy projects, pins are good, means less soldering. 

Can you give me the link so i can check it for you? I can tell you what you need to do to make a pitch controller on your module. On the ISD1820 it's always pin 10 resistor that controls the sample frequency.

 

I can't recall any clicks on the loop mode. My modules are mainly (possibly exclusively) gonna use the playe (no sustain after trigger signal) and playl (plays whole sample on each trigger(sustain))  because i use a sequencer to trigger it.

 

I'm hoping i can simply turn a 8 step LED sequencer module into a 8 step photocoupler sequencer directly connected to a switch that selects between PLAYE and PLAYL. I'm not entirely shure if it's possible though, because i'm not shure the photoresistors can go to a low enough resistance. If it doesn't work i can either try to make a transistor switch circuit or use a relay instead of the photocouplers, or maybe use phototransistors instead of photoresistors.


Edited by TheBellows, 06 September 2017 - 15:40.


#21 Renoised

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Posted 06 September 2017 - 15:45

Cheers, Bellows, sure I'll go dig-out the link later, and I think you might have misssed the another reply I slipped-in while you were typing :lol:

But yup, I'd like as much juicy info on this little gadget as you can muster, I'll be back later today!



#22 TheBellows

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Posted 06 September 2017 - 16:15

 

 

Reading the sheet he included, I'm a bit weary of the way looping would need to be handled.  It looks as if there's no on-board way of setting it to loop mode, which is kinda dumb really.  According to the sheet, I'd have to reset a pin each time I want a loop.  That makes me think I'd get a click due to the reset on each loop.  Looking forward to playing with them though!

Reset a pin? Couldn't you just use a switch for this? 



#23 Renoised

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Posted 06 September 2017 - 18:24

Reset a pin? Couldn't you just use a switch for this? 

 

Yes, it looks as if I can, cause I just noticed PE is listed twice on the board, and one of them is a jumper.

I think loop is done by usnig the jumper (or a switch) across that secondary jumper.

 

I don't understand why it has PE on the board twice though (three times if you count the on-board button).

What's that all about, any idea? - just convenience maybe?

 

 

sound-module.jpg


Edited by Renoised, 06 September 2017 - 18:46.


#24 TheBellows

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Posted 07 September 2017 - 16:46

That looks exactly the same as mine, except from the fact that the components are labled differently, but they have used the excact same layout, so that doesn't matter.

 

It looks like it is just bad labeling, those to the left is for the play modes, while the P-E to the right is the loop pins, if you put the jumper there or a switch you can have an endless loop of whatever you recorded.

http://www.instructa...DER-AND-PLAYER/


Edited by TheBellows, 07 September 2017 - 20:19.


#25 Renoised

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Posted 08 September 2017 - 10:03

Thanks Bellows!

 

I downloaded the official Datasheet for the chip and was reading it yesterday.  Have to say, I don't like the idea of it having a built-in amplifier with no way to bypass it.  Wouldn't the levels need to be taken down before connecting it to something like, say, a multitrack recorder input?

 

Having an amplified output would mean it's way above line-level, wouldn't it?

Still learning this stuff but I can imagine the distortion would be insane!


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